A Fresh Look at Some of our Oldest Tales
If you’re intrigued by mythical stories of magic, heartbreak and secrets, then the ancient tales of Eryri (Snowdonia) are calling. They’re whispering that you too can come and walk the paths, take in the views and feel the same thrill that inspired some of the area’s most imaginative stories. Come and create your own spellbinding memories in the majestic mountains and legendary lakes of Eryri.
Llyn yr Afanc, Betws-y-Coed
When travelling south from Betws-y-Coed along the A470 you’ll cross the River Conwy, and on the north side of the bridge you’ll find Llyn yr Afanc, which translates as Beaver Lake. But according to the tale, this was no ordinary beaver - legend has it that he was a croc-like monster who terrorised the locals. Once, when thrashing his tail in rage, he caused a devastating flood that affected the whole country. This monster attacked anyone who came near the water - something had to be done. The story states that a young girl was tasked with luring the Afanc out of the water with her beautiful voice before an ox pulled him out of the river completely. But the poor ox lost an eye in doing so, and he cried so many tears over his lost eye that a new lake was created - Pwll Llygaid yr Ych - The Ox Eye Lake.
If you’re brave enough to swim in Llyn yr Afanc, you might well be ready for a bite to eat at Betws-y-Coed afterwards. There’s plenty of choice in this Alpine feel village. You could enjoy more river views whilst eating at Craig-y-Dderwen country house, where you can lock up your bike or charge your electric car with ease. Or why not fill your picnic basket with fresh local produce from the Iechyd Da Deli? Once fed you can continue to explore the area’s winding footpaths and breath-taking waterfalls, or head over to one of the Zip World locations if you’re ready for more adventure.
Llyn Cwellyn Fairies, Rhyd Ddu
There are many corners of Eryri where people claim to have seen something magical moving in the meadows. Keeping an eye out for the Tylwyth Teg - the Welsh fairies - is a must while walking along the boardwalk at Llyn Cwellyn. This wide accessible path takes you along part of Llyn Cwellyn at your own, comfortable pace. But if you hear sweet music on the breeze, beware - this is what lured a shepherd into a Tylwyth Teg circle, or so the story goes! Once in the circle, he crossed over into the wonderful land of the fairies. When he crossed back into his own world, after what felt like mere minutes to him, he realised that seven years had passed. His fiancé had married someone else, his family didn’t recognise him. Everything had changed, and it broke his heart.
Views of Yr Wyddfa and Mynydd Mawr along with picnic benches make this a perfect place for families to enjoy. You’re within reach of the little village of Rhyd Ddu, where a popular footpath to the summit of Yr Wyddfa begins if you’re up to the challenge. Or perhaps you would rather catch the train along the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highlands Railways to Caernarfon, or enjoy a meal and a cold drink at the family-run, traditional country inn and restaurant Cwellyn Arms. Once there make sure to check your pictures in case you’ve been photobombed by any fairies!
The Legend of Gelert, Beddgelert
If you follow the A4085 south from Rhyd Ddu you will arrive at Beddgelert. The village’s name translates as Gelert’s Grave, and the story behind it might well be our most famous myth. Gelert was the loyal dog of Llywelyn Fawr, the prince of Wales. One day, Llywelyn went out hunting and left Gelert to look after his baby son who was asleep in the cradle. As the sound of the hunt distanced, something else caught Gelert’s attention - there was an animal nearby. In came a wild, hungry wolf. The wolf went for the baby and loyal Gelert attacked the wolf. It was a bloodbath and the room was wrecked, and the poor baby’s cradle was knocked over, but at last, Gelert killed the Wolf. When Llywelyn came home, the first thing he saw was his son’s upturned cradle, and Gelert covered in blood. In a flash of fury, thinking that Gelert must have killed his son, he drew his sword and plunged it into Gelert’s side, killing him instantly. It was only then he heard his baby boy cry, and in turn noticed the dead wolf on the floor, and realised his terrible mistake. Once in Beddgelert make sure you follow the river path that leads to Gelert’s grave, and take in fully this extraordinary tale of loyalty and heartbreak.
After all that you might well be ready for an ice cream, so head over to Glaslyn Cafe - the award-winning artisan ice cream and sorbet producers. There are many fabulous food venues in the village including the Hebog Bistro which has a children’s menu and afternoon tea is also available. Beddgelert also has a range of beautiful gift shops so make sure you pop in to buy something to mark your trip. If your loyal four-legged friend is joining you on your holiday in Eryri, then don’t forget that they must be kept on a lead in the countryside, especially when near livestock. There is more information available on ensuring you have safe and enjoyable walks with your dog in Eryri.
Dinas Emrys, Craflwyn
A stone’s throw from Beddgelert, along the A498 towards Nant Gwynant, you can pull into Craflwyn Car Park. From here you can follow a footpath that could lead you to meet Wales’ famous red dragon, or so the story goes...This is the opportunity that you’ve been waiting for to experience the true fierceness of our national flag’s legendary creature! Legend has it that King Gwrtheyrn tried to build a court here, in Dinas Emrys, as it’s now known. The workers worked hard every day, placing stone upon stone. But by the morning, all their hard work was undone, and the walls had crumbled. Wise men suggested that a bad spirit was responsible, so a young boy was selected - he would be sacrificed, to pacify the spirit! But this young boy, named Myrddin Emrys, told the king that the problem wasn’t a bad spirit, but instead the two dragons fighting each other every night deep in the ground; a white dragon and a red dragon. This turned out to be true, so they waited until the battle was over and it was safe to start building again. Eventually - you guessed it - the red dragon prevailed! When Gwrtheyrn eventually managed to build his court he named it Dinas Emrys, after the young boy. This path will take you through mesmerising oak woodland, past waterfalls and towards ruins left by mediaeval Welsh princes.
If the walk feels long for any young ones in your group, then why not tell them the tale on the way up? Surely a possible dragon-sighting will get them to the summit! After your adventure why not stop for refreshments at Caffi Gwynant? This café offers a wide range of foods prepared using local produce (can cater for gluten-free diets), homemade cakes and desserts, local ales and free Wi-Fi.
Nant Gwrtheyrn, Pen Llŷn
King Gwrtheyrn is also connected to our next myth and location - what a troublesome life he led! It is said that he came to this small, tucked-away seaside valley to hide from his enemies; the village which is today known as Nant Gwrtheyrn. Once you’ve turned off the main road, and you’re driving down to this picturesque location, you’ll be treated to glimpses of a vast, shimmering sea beyond the pine trees. This wondrous place’s most famous myth is the one of young lovers, Rhys and Meinir. On their wedding day, a playful tradition turned into a tragedy. As was customary then, Meinir, the bride, went into hiding as the groom and guests tried to find her. But they failed - despite searching far and wide, no one could find her. Rhys continued to look for the love of his life, convinced that he would find her safe and well, until one fateful night. A storm was raging, and Rhys was still out searching for Meinir, when all of a sudden a bolt of lightning struck an old oak tree, splitting it in half, and revealing poor Meinir’s skeleton, still in her wedding dress!
This is one of many stories that Nant Gwrtheyrn offers, which you can read in full, along with a history of the former quarry village at the Heritage Centre, located in Capel Salem. You can also travel through time here and explore an old quarryman’s cottage, reconstructed to show how a quarryman and his family would have lived in 1910. Caffi Meinir cafe and licensed restaurant serves a variety of home-made meals, snacks and refreshments, and has designated dog-friendly seating inside and out. Nant Gwrtheyrn also offers Bed and Breakfast and self-catering accommodation, and you can also attend Welsh language courses here. When leaving Nant Gwrtheyrn, why not stop for a stroll up Tre’r Ceiri to see the preserved Iron Age hillfort, before enjoying a drink at Wales’ first community-owned pub, Tafarn y Fic, Llithfaen (which boasts a great playground too).
The Legend of Branwen and Bendigeidfran, Harlech
When you visit Harlech your eyes will be drawn to the castle, which boasts a long and interesting history. But take a second to look out to sea, and imagine that you are a giant. Bendigeidfran the Giant was the King of Ynys y Cedyrn, known today as Britain, and he features in the tale of Branwen, Daughter of Llŷr located in Harlech. This story forms one of the four branches of the Mabinogi - our oldest Welsh prose stories. The story begins when Matholwch, King of Ireland, crosses the sea to ask Branwen - Bendigeidfran’s sister - to marry him. They are married but Efnisien, Branwen’s other brother is furious that no one asked his advice, and he takes his revenge by mutilating Matholwch’s horses. Despite this, Branwen sets off to start a new life in Ireland, but once there she is locked up and mistreated. Branwen manages to befriend a starling who flew to Harlech to tell Bendigedfran of the abuse she was receiving. The big brother was furious and called upon his best warriors before setting off to Ireland. It was a long and bloody battle. Bendigeidfran was beheaded, and only six soldiers returned to Wales with Branwen, and the giant’s head.
Once you’ve recovered from this story, and taken in the views, why not head off to one of Harlech’s cosy cafes such as Caffi Bwtri Bach, go for a walk on Llandanwg beach, or taste the local coffee at Ffa Da. Harlech is accessible via good public transport, on foot along the coastal path or a scenic drive by car.
Cader Idris, Dolgellau
We’re proud of our giants in Eryri, and it’s clear to see how the surrounding majestic mountains inspired so many wonderful stories and myths. One such mountain is Cader Idris. For this outing, travel first to the stone-built town of Dolgellau, and park in the Glan Wnion Leisure Center to follow the Pilin Pwn or Pony Path footpath, up Cader Idris mountain. This is not an easy stroll, parts of the path can be challenging but very rewarding. Don’t forget that there are many things to consider before setting off on this type of walk; to make sure you’ve thought of everything take a look at the Adventure Smart guide.
Legend has it that this mountain was a chair for the giant Idris - a gentle giant that protected the area. ‘Cader’ or ‘Cadair’ is the Welsh word for chair. Some say that if you fell asleep on this mountain, you would wake up either wise as a bard or crazy! If you’ve made it safely down and are still your old self, you might enjoy spending some time in the town of Dolgellau. Gift shops such as Siop Medi, or why not call in at the independent pub, The Stag, where there is ample choice of food and drink and even a separate menu for dogs! You can enjoy traditional food at Y Sospan which dates back to 1606, or you might fancy some Mediterranean tapas at Tafarn y Gader. But if you fancy a view of the mountain you’ve just conquered, a pizza at Bwyty Mawddach might well be your best bet.
The land is full of legends and myths here in Eryri. Come and feel, come and discover and come and create your own legendary memories here this summer.
