A Drink with a Difference; the Pull of Eryri’s Community Pubs
Eryri (Snowdonia) has a wealth of remarkable pubs. Among them, of course, are the familiar establishments owned by well-known brands.
But there’s much more to it. In Wales, Eryri is also the heartland of the ‘community pub’. These are inns owned by the community itself. Often, the locals have stepped in to save these buildings from disappearing for good. As a result, they offer much more than just a bar within four walls. They are hubs that are the heartbeat of their local area; they are taverns that reflect the unique culture of that place.
Next time you’re wandering through Eryri, be sure to pop into one of these excellent places for some brilliant local beer, great grub, and a wonderfully warm welcome.
Y Plu, Llanystumdwy
The village of Llanystumdwy is famous for many things. David Lloyd George, the only Welshman to be Prime Minister of Britain, is buried here. Jan Morris, the world-famous writer, spent much of her life here. And Tŷ Newydd, the stunning mansion that houses the National Writing Centre of Wales, is located nearby.
But Llanystumdwy is also home to the iconic Y Plu pub.
Having quenched its customers’ thirst for two hundred years, things were pretty bleak back in 2018. The doors were locked, and the local community was facing a substantial blow to its future. But through the initiative of a small local group of volunteers, enough funds were raised to buy the keys to the former ‘Feathers Inn’.
It means that today the village has a hub open to the community in the truest sense of the word. You don’t just get a beer and good company here. You also get a monthly quiz, learn Welsh chats, weekly afternoon tea, and digital support sessions among several other events. Try popping in on the last Thursday of the month to enjoy one of the jamming sessions. And that’s on top of the regular gigs held in the garden.
Nearby, the initiative has created accommodation in the old Capel Bach for those who want to stay the night. There is a small communal shop in the grounds. And remember to visit the Lloyd George Museum on the high street or to stroll along the lovely banks of the River Dwyfor, which flows through the village. The Museum is currently closed for renovations but will reopen next Easter.
Yr Heliwr, Nefyn
Nefyn has always been a bustling village. From the inhabitants of the Garn Boduan Iron Age hillfort, to the herring fishermen of the nineteenth century, to visitors of the Golf Club in this day and age – the place has always attracted footfall. But the high street would be a poorer place without the whitewashed walls of Yr Heliwr to welcome you through its door.
It was in 2021 that the revamped former ‘Sportsman Arms’ opened under the auspices of the community. The place had been closed for over a decade. It’s now a hotel, as well as a pub, while the initiative focuses on creating social, environmental and economic value for the local area. Promoting the Welsh language is also a priority.
There is quality homemade food, while Cwrw Llŷn’s beer is served straight from the taps. It hasn’t had to travel far, as it’s brewed just down the road (more below)! Alongside the beer – and the pint and chat sessions – there are also regular tea and cake afternoons, children’s art sessions, a weekly digital café, craft sessions, a sporting memories club and a darts club. And that’s not to mention the many cultural and musical events that take place throughout the year.
Remember that Nefyn is part of the fflecsi Llŷn Peninsula bus service area, so it’s easy to get here during the day!
Tafarn y Fic, Llithfaen
Turn eastwards from Nefyn. Ten miles down the road, you’ll reach the village of Llithfaen. Among the nearby attractions are the summits of the Eifl (including the famous Tre’r Ceiri hillfort) and the stunning heritage centre of Nant Gwrtheyrn.
But as well as boasting these wonders, Llithfaen has another reason to blow its horn. The village is the home of Tafarn y Fic – the oldest pub run by a co-operative in the whole of Europe. It has been in the hands of the community since the late 1980s. Ever since, it has been a blueprint for other community pubs up and down the country. Indeed, it’s unlikely the ‘community pub’ scene in Wales would be the same without the original vision of the people of Llithfaen over 35 years ago.
As well as the front bar, where there are regular gigs and quizzes, a community room is also part of the building’s design. Call during late summer if you can, to enjoy the annual festival, or on bank holiday Sundays, when musicians are in full flow. And bring all the family, as there’s a great public playground at the back. Let the children run wild while you enjoy the stunning views over the expanse of Llŷn.
Y Pengwern, Llan Ffestiniog
It’s almost fifteen years since the residents of Llan Ffestiniog came together to buy this ancient pub. Parts of the building are believed to date from the fifteenth century. The drovers used to call here, and a blacksmith would be on hand to shoe the cattle before the long and arduous journey over the Migneint mountain. More recently, the pub would have regularly quenched the thirst of quarrymen.
Today, the community initiative in charge has teamed up to create an economic, social, educational and cultural resource for the village. The pub offers food; there are rooms to stay; and it attracts people from all over – just as it did centuries ago.
Foreign food nights; quizzes; cocktail parties; happy hours; gardening days – that’s just some of the offering in a pub that is a local cornerstone. After enjoying the Pengwern welcome, take a walk to see the beautiful Cynfal Falls, or the former Roman fort of Tomen y Mur near Trawsfynydd Lake.
Yr Eagles, Llanuwchllyn
According to Yr Eagles’s website, this pub is a ‘national icon’ and one of ‘Wales’s best-known pubs’. But that status was under threat until very recently. The pub was for sale, its fate hanging in the balance.
Thankfully, the community saw an opportunity, managing to raise £450,000 to purchase the building. Contributions came in from all over the country and beyond. Even in the Welsh community pub world, that’s a remarkable figure. Since December 2023, the pub has been open once again, this time in the hands of the village’s residents.
It means the bar, restaurant and shop are still able to serve everyone in the neighbourhood, from the nursery playgroup to the elderly. The opening hours are long, and throughout, there is a clear emphasis on creating an atmosphere that places the Welsh language and Welsh culture at its heart.
After enjoying the traditional offering, take a walk to nearby Llyn Tegid, or take a ride on the Bala Lake Railway, which stops in the centre of the village. The Glanllyn outdoor activity centre is also nearby.
Ty'n Llan, Llandwrog
They say that a public house has stood on the site of Ty'n Llan, in the picturesque village of Llandwrog, since as long ago as 1652. Today, it’s one of Wales’s latest community pubs, not far from Dinas Dinlle’s famous beach, where legends of the Mabinogi lurk.
The community came together to purchase the building in 2021 after it had been closed for quite a while. In no time, there was light back in the rooms, the beer was flowing, and the food was coming steaming hot from the kitchen. Most importantly, Llandwrog once again had a meeting space for the exercise club, the lunch club for the elderly, the walking club, the French language club, the youth club, the coffee mornings, the Welsh learners club, and much more...
Currently, Ty'n Llan is again closed – but for a more positive reason this time around. Extensive renovations are underway. The inn will reopen in a few months to offer much more to the community, to visitors, and to yourself! In the meantime, go for a walk in Glynllifon country park, where there are wonderfully scenic routes through the woods. And take note that regular service buses travel through Llandwrog as well.
Cwrw Llŷn, Nefyn & Purple Moose, Porthmadog
Let us return to Nefyn, to visit a slightly different initiative this time. At first glance, a brewery stands on the site of Cwrw Llŷn. But come in through the door: here’s a tap room where you can taste the product and embark on a tour of the brewery floor. There’s also an outside seating area which often hosts live entertainment.
The quality of the craft beer itself is all-important: it’s hand-made in small batches here. That, according to the owners, is how to ensure its quality and consistency. While enjoying a tipple, you can see this exact process in action, as there is a large window between the bar and the brewery.
Most importantly, the initiative is inspired by the heritage of Llŷn itself. The area’s stories, legends and culture can be sensed all around you. Look at the names of the beers: Brenin Enlli, Seithenyn, Cochyn, Y Brawd Houdini, Glyndwr, Porth Neigwl, Largo. These are names that have derived from Llŷn’s history.
The brewery stands on the former pilgrims’ route to Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island). To learn more about the beer names, take a pilgrimage yourself to the Cwrw Llŷn site. The fflecsi Llŷn Peninsula bus is on hand to make that journey easier!
If you're in the vicinity of Porthmadog, you must pop into the local brewery, Purple Moose. Brewed with Eryri water, Purple Moose beers have won numerous awards including Gold in CAMRA's Champion Beer of Britain Competition.
Having started brewing just back home in 1995, Lawrence Washington’s company now owns a brewery that produces over 57,000 pints a week, and also runs two popular pubs in Porthmadog, The Australian and The Station Inn. As the name indicates, The Station Inn is literally on the train station in Porthmadog, so why not travel here by train before calling in to try an award-winning beverage? Or wander into town to visit the brewery or The Australian pub, where there's also a good selection of homemade food.
A few other gems
As well as the community pubs, remember the myriad other pubs Eryri has to offer, often in spectacular locations. Among them are the Tŷ Coch Inn, standing on the magnificent beachfront in Porthdinllaen; the Pen-y-Gwryd hotel in the Nant Gwynant valley (the summit of Snowdon will loom above you); and the Grapes Hotel, nestled nicely under the wooded slopes of Maentwrog. These are perfect places to visit at the end of a weekend stroll, for Sunday dinner perhaps, or to hunker down in front of a cosy fire, while the dog keeps your feet warm under the table.
