Beyond the Guide Book
You know they exist, but you’re not certain where. Those secret local spots, those concealed historical places that can be found off the beaten track in every region. The major attractions are popular for a reason, but Eryri also has its fair share of more peaceful lures. Leave the crowds behind and come and discover them for yourself.
Bangor
Start in the city of Bangor. But not in the city centre either. Instead, on the banks of the Menai Strait , away from the hustle and bustle of the street, there’s a wonderful pier – the second longest in the whole of Wales. The scenery is breathtaking. Ahead of you lies the Anglesey coast, beneath your feet, the ebb and flow of the water, and behind you, the soaring peaks of Eryri. It’s an easy stroll along to the far end, where you’re almost close enough to touch Anglesey. Take a break afterwards in the Pavilion tearoom. Back in Bangor itself (which has convenient bus and train connections), don’t forget to visit the Storiel gallery and museum, or check out St Deiniol's Cathedral. Then head for Upper Bangor to enjoy a tipple at the iconic Y Glôb pub or some authentic Neapolitan pizzas at Jones’ Pizza.
Conwy Town Walls
Fifteen miles along the coast to the east, you’ll reach the historic town of Conwy. Although a busy town, not everybody knows about the fascinating walk along the mediaeval walls. Indeed, for three quarters of a mile, you can walk continuously over some of Europe’s finest, oldest walls. It comes with a word of warning if you’re scared of heights! But you’ll be rewarded with fabulous views of the narrow streets below, while the Conwy estuary sparkles in the distance. And it’s all free. While you’re in town, pop down to the Conwy Mussel Museum on the quay, or take a peek at the smallest house in Britain.
If you’re hungry, Conwy is packed with excellent cafes and pubs, with The Jackdaw restaurant on the High Street fast earning a reputation for fine dining.
Towyn Beach, Tudweiliog
Aim next for Pen Llŷn where you’ll find many places off the beaten track, including the beach nestling underneath Towyn farm in Tudweiliog. From the road, you’d hardly know it was there. After parking on the farm, head through the gate and down the path towards the sea. Suddenly, a sheltered bay of golden sand stretches magically in front of you. There are crab pools for the children, soft sand underfoot, and great swimming opportunities. It’s a truly magnificent beach. Back up the cliff, browse through the wonderful array of clothes, jewellery and homeware at Cwt Tatws shop and café, while the Lion Hotel in the village is famous for its hearty meals.
Porthmadog Circular Walk
Porthmadog is a major town in north-west Wales, but how many people have heard of its excellent circular walk? It’s a six-mile-long trail that contains pretty much everything you could wish for. You’ll encounter the pretty seaside village of Borth-y-Gest; Parc y Borth nature reserve; the historic, Georgian village of Tremadog; and the bustling port town of Porthmadog itself, where the famous Cob crosses the estuary and the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railways departs for Beddgelert and Caernarfon. Throughout the trek, you’ll enjoy unrivalled views of the estuary, of Cardigan Bay, and of the spectacular Rhinogydd and Moelwynion mountain ranges. To quench your thirst, Porthmadog has several great cafés, including the Big Rock Cafe on the High Street. For something stronger, the Purple Moose Brewery shop is a few doors down. Also located in the town is Siop Fawr Portmeirion, supposedly Wales’s oldest department store, trading since 1874.
Yr Ysgwrn, Trawsfynydd
Yr Ysgwrn was once an ordinary farmhouse on the slopes above Trawsfynydd. Today, it’s anything but ordinary. This was the home of Hedd Wyn, the poet who won the coveted Chair at the 1917 National Eisteddfod, but was killed in the Great War before he heard the news. As such, the place is replete with symbolism. It embodies the impact of war on communities. It’s also a time capsule that records the social, cultural and agricultural history of this part of Wales at the turn of the twentieth century. On your visit, you’ll instantly sense its significance, along with the sadness. Admission is free, while there are also plenty of walking trails and picnic spots. Nearby, Sheep Walk Snowdonia and Coed y Brenin Forest Park provide further opportunities to explore the outdoors. Pop into the Oakley Arms or the Grapes Hotel in Maentwrog afterwards for refreshments.
Foel Caerynwch, Dolgellau
Not everyone is intent on conquering Yr Wyddfa or Cadair Idris. But the idea of climbing a mountain may still appeal. If so, aim for Foel Caerynwch. From the village of Brithdir, it’s roughly two miles to the summit, the path ascending nearly six hundred feet. But that modest effort will be worthwhile. The views of the Meirionnydd hills are excellent, and likewise the Clywedog valley and the Tal-y-llyn ribbon lake in the distance. In the skies above, keep your eye out for kestrels and buzzards. And for keen geologists, thousands of years ago, this summit sat at a fork between two giant glaciers. It was these glaciers that carved out the valleys beneath you while moving towards Ireland. If you plan on bringing your four-legged friend too, don’t forget that they must be kept on a lead, especially when near livestock. There is more information available here on ensuring you have safe and enjoyable walks with your dog in Eryri. Back on the valley floor, the town of Dolgellau is a short hop away, and has plenty of great places to eat and drink. Among them are the Dylanwad wine shop and the wonderfully old-fashioned T H Roberts coffee shop by the square.
Craig y Fron, Bala
Another relatively easy walking route is the Craig y Fron trail, starting from the town of Bala this time, and heading for the hills on the northern side of the town. This is a leisurely stroll that’s suitable for families. After a steady climb, the path levels, before you descend across pasture. You’ll get views of Bala itself and an old quarry, while admiring the mountain ranges that surround you. One of the other attractions of this trail is its proximity to the town. In hot weather, why not jump in to Llyn Tegid for a refreshing dip, or alternatively head for the High Street to sample the famous fish and chips from Y Badell Aur or a meal at the Cyfnod Cafe & Bistro.
